Skip to main content

Chapter 12: Arriving in Morelia


Sunday dawns clear in this high country. Driving through the Michoacán highlands is a succession of speed bumps, small towns, and cities, unremarkable in every way. Outside of Zamora, the state police have set up an informal roadblock on the highway, the first I’ve seen on this trip. They signal me to pull over, onto the shoulder. The usual questions: de dónde vienes, adónde vas, tienes armas o drogas. I step out of the truck, present my passport and import permit. They put on a show of scrutinizing the import permit, then ask me to raise the hatch. What’s in the safe? Documents only. I open it and show them. My casual confidence convinces them; I have nothing they could nail me on, and they say okay and go on.

Nearing Morelia, the country becomes forested, oaks and pines interspersed with farm plots. Pedestrians are everywhere, as are bicyclists; this is a crowded land. The city of Morelia immediately impresses me; this is a seriously urbane place. There are several large parks and greenways within walking distance of the main plaza. The city is currently hosting a film festival of some sort, so downtown traffic is gridlocked and pedestrians swarm everywhere. I park on the street near a boutique hotel and search for lodging of my own. Across from the bustling market is the Posada Don Vasco, newly refurbished hot-water rooms for 270 MXN (15 USD) a night. I snatch up the last vacancy and hit the sidewalks.

Morelia is a lively, happy, safe city. Señoritas walk about in fashionably daring outfits never seen in northern cities. The sidewalks are so crowded with huge family groups that it is necessary to walk in the street to make any progress. Somehow, with all the weaving and dodging, nobody bumps each other, raises a voice in anger. Personal space is a few scant inches here, but it is still respected. This is a place I could stay for a while.

In the evening, half the city enjoys a night on the town, or so it seems. The old folks dance to mariachi music in one park, while antojitos vendors serve up hot snacks nearby. I decide to try a gazpacho. This specialty of Morelia consists of a large cup of chopped pineapple and mango topped with blue cheese and drizzled with a sweet and sour dressing. Back in the plaza with my stash and a rolling paper, I duck into an alley to light up. Nobody pays me any mind. The crowds have only thickened as altar boys carry banners advertising a public light show on the cathedrals façade. The vibe is very peaceful; toy vendors shoot rubber band propellers into the air, their carts laden with all sorts of flashing and squawking gew-gaws, music boxes that play a silly little tune over and over again. Cotton-candy sellers, bearing long wooden poles loaded with giant plastic-wrapped balls of fuzz, call out Algodones, al diez, al diez. Papas (potato chip) vendors do likewise, offering an array of salsas to pour over the chips. Teenage lovers stroll through the crowd hand-in-hand; old men snooze on benches amidst the happy commotion. The night is mild, dry, perfect. I sit on a bench-like curb in front of the government building, back against the historic stonework. Everything is going swimmingly. Tomorrow, I plan to enroll in a week of Spanish lessons at the Baden-Powell Institute, getting a short-term apartment of my own, settling down for a spell in this genteel highland city a thousand miles from the United States. The future looks bright indeed.